Metallic: What Does it Mean in Perfumery?
Metallic belongs to the scent word family
Metallic is an unusual concept for a fragrance. Yet, there are several perfumes out there that can be described as metallic. In the course of my research for this article, I discovered that most metallic fragrances are more easily achieved through synthetic aromas. Yet, it is possible to create a metallic fragrance with botanicals, too. Full disclosure: It is not a concept I have tried to date.
Metallic, according to the Oxford dictionary, describes [a fragrance] that resembles metals. According to Fragrantica, “the main cause of a metallic smell is hidden in fats, which are oxidized under the impact of oxidoreductases (a group of enzymes which catalyze the transfer of electrons from one molecule to another, which is called oxidation for losing electrons, and reduction for gaining them.”[1] Furthermore, “these [metallic scents] are unsaturated (often jugated) aldehydes and ketones.”[1]
Metallic botanical notes (when combined with other notes and/or in an accord) might include:
geranium (Pelargonium graveolens)
bergamot (Citrus bergamia), patchouli (Pogestomon cablin), iris (Iris pallida), and tonka bean absolute (Dipteryx odorata) as in Juliette Has a Gun Metal Chypre [2]
Citrus notes
Some heavier florals with a certain chemical component (see previous paragraph).
Learning scent language is key to understanding the perfume process. By grouping related words into similar groups, you can see both how they interact with each other and how they ultimately work together (or against) to help you to create a beautiful fragrance.
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References:
Fragrantica. Yodov, Matvey. Metallic Scent in Perfumery.
The Perfume Society. 5 Metallic-themed Scents We’re Getting Hot and Heavy With.
“I love tie dye, metallic, and anything that stands out in terms of fashion.”
Jeffree Star, American Make-up Artist